“While Ramadan for Muslims is about sacrifice, connecting to God and charity, so much of the month is also about gathering — to pray, to eat and to give to those in need,” wrote NPR’s national correspondent Leila Fadel in her article about how Muslim Americans tried to adapt to pandemic limitations during the 2020 Ramadan. Leila went on to tell the distinct loneliness shared by these Muslim communities and the inadequacy of virtual means to replace the usual gatherings.

Even in Indonesia where Muslims are the majority, the pause enforced by the pandemic felt pronounced. It’s no wonder then that this year, establishments in Jakarta—particularly hotels—are going all out with their iftar, an evening meal ritual to break one’s fast. From serving twists of kolak in a mocktail to transporting diners to a Middle Eastern-inspired dinner party, the comforting delight of gathering over food is one timeless tradition that has always defined the holy month.

‍

A Middle Eastern-inspired banquet

Colourful canopies hang from the ceiling of Nusantara Garden at The Dharmawangsa Jakarta. With ornate, lantern-like chandeliers as the centrepiece, the expansive venue emulates the atmosphere of a Middle Eastern dinner party. Most tables come with floor seatings, where elegantly-dressed ladies to foreign tourists gather and sit on cushions as they indulge in local and international offerings from the hotel’s very own kitchen.

There’s the well-loved iga panggang madu, served hot and succulent with a portion of rice and veggies from a live station to one corner of the hall, side by side with elaborate dishes like lobster rica-rica as well as Middle Eastern comfort bites including the spicy and filling shawarma.

As expected at The Dharmawangsa, local fares are the highlight. On rotation are the famous nasi liwet and nasi kapau, a classic yet refined take on timeless recipes, traditional sticky Javanese cakes jajan pasar and even a cart of kue ape, where the Betawi-style soft pancake with crispy crepe crust and coconut milk centre served fresh and piping hot.