The busy Pesanggrahan street is brimming with all sorts of culinary establishments. Lining both sides of the road, most of them still have that newly-opened shine—decked with big logos and recognizable brand names atop contemporary exteriors. Sitting amongst them, Nasi Gandul Ibu Endang’s humble wooden home steadfastly maintains its spot since the turn of the millennium.

Making up the interior, green-painted wooden beams come together with tarp-covered tables, an asphalt floor, a picture of the crew with the current Indonesian president, as well as a curious array of naturalistic paintings.

The eponymous Ibu Endang blends seamlessly with these surroundings, it’s easy to miss her without someone pointing her out. Casually dressed and assisted by family members including her sister Ibu Ani, she switches between handling payments, cleaning up tables, taking orders and preparing her signature dish, the Nasi Gandul.

It’s a simple fare. Steamed rice and thinly-sliced beef are placed on banana leaves-covered plates for added fragrance, and the golden brown broth of coconut milk, spices and soy sauce is poured last. Served warm, it adds a sweet and savoury finish to the dish, a balance that most would immediately recognise as characteristically Central Javanese.

A photo-copied newspaper clipping of the eatery from the late ’90s—boldly headlined, “Enthusiasts Willingly Eat Inside a Ramshackle Tent” in Indonesian, referring to her previous street stall—is a testament to Ibu Endang’s long and illustrious experience in making the speciality dish of her hometown Pati.